Gura Humorului is a logging town surrounded by beautiful farmland. It’s also the perfect base for visiting the painted monasteries of Southern Bucovina. Most travelers arrive by train from either Suceava or Cluj. Because hotels are limited, the best options are the ‘free’ rooms offered by local families. Before the four solo voices of Beethoven’s “Ode to Joy” start singing in your head—free means vacant in this case. With a little luck, chain-smoking Brenda will meet you at the train station, ready to offer you a room in her lovely mother’s home. If Brenda isn’t wandering around, plenty of other houses advertise available rooms.
Staying with a local Romanian family will accentuate your experience. It will also provide you with a home-cooked breakfast. In the case of the Swiss friend I met at Brenda’s, it even provided a new companion. As I left to hike through scenic farms on the way to visiting Voronet Monastery (2.5 miles away) and Humor Monastery (3.5 miles away). Brenda’s mother requested, quietly, that I accompany her other guest, a young lady. That won’t happen at most hotels.
Gura Humorului
Buses or taxis are available as alternatives to hiking for travelers who prefer a more comfortable journey. Be warned, however; you are unlikely to be invited by a Romanian family (see photo above) to join their picnic by the river if the bus.
The painted monasteries are the jewels of northeastern Romania. Their interior and exterior walls feature frescoes of a variety of Biblical scenes, including The Last Judgment. Voronet’s intense shades of blue and detailed imagery are highly captivating. Humor is a smaller monastery with its own distinct fresco themes; its reddish-brown shades provide a beautiful contrast to the vibrant blue of Voronet. Each monastery was also fortified to defend against the power of the Ottoman Empire, which regularly invaded the region during the centuries these structures were built.
Monastery
It’s recommended that you hire a local guides to gain a deeper understanding of the frescoes and scripture. While the scenes are often self-explanatory, each monastery holds a more significant underlying message. Additionally, because parts of the frescoes have faded over time, a professional guide can help fill in the missing pieces of the story. Consider bringing a packed lunch, as well, since the grounds offer a comfortable place to relax for the afternoon.
Minor updates and edits were made from the original article.
Gura Humorului © Gennaro Salamone
Monastery © Gary Todd
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Gennaro Salamone is the founder and editor of Enduring Wanderlust. Please contact him with questions regarding article or photo submissions.